The Leopard Gecko is a excellent choice for your very first reptile. It’s very low maintenance and does not
need a lot of attention. This reptile originated from Pakistan, Afghanistan and India. These are arid regions and
research has shown the leopard geckos dens have high humidity levels. For this reason we recommend having
a moist hide box for shedding and egg laying.
Most Leopard gecko breeders use breeding racks to provide housing for their leopard geckos. If you choose
to use a glass tank, we recommend enclosing all four sides with cardboard, then remove one of the four sides
every week for a month. Never put your tank in direct sunlight and be sure to provide shelter and a few places
to hide. This will simulate the rock crevices in the wild. Depending on what substrate you choose to use, we
recommend a fully digestible calcium sand. Some leopard geckos can become impacted with calcium sand,
and you can choose to use other types of substrate. We use calcium sand in all of our glass tanks and we have
not had a problem. Juveniles should not be housed in calcium sand until they are at least 5” long. Remember
don't put two males in the same tank, because they will fight. Housing two or more females and a male
together is acceptable. They have a high level of social tolerance but don't require company. Because leopard
geckos are nocturnal they don't require any special lighting. Our breeding room has windows in it and it
simulates natural day and night cycles.
Due to the stress of shipping and a new environment, we recommend minimizing the handling of your new
pet. Provide fresh food and water and a moist hide box and or log. It’s not unusual for a new gecko to stop
eating for a few days after arrival. In time your gecko will gain your trust and your new friend will come out
when you feed and clean the cage.
All new arrivals should be quarantined for 30 - 60 days. We recommend that the humidity be from 50 - 70%
and you can achieve this by providing a moist hide box. Temperatures should range from 75 - 85 degrees and
you can use infrared heat lamps and heating pads with a thermostat. Remember to leave at least 1/3 of your
tank cool, to allow your leopard gecko to cool down if needed. We keep our breeding racks and tanks
between 80 and 85 degrees.
We feed our geckos meal worms, crickets and wax worms as a treat. It’s important to gut load your meal
worms and crickets with carrots, lettuce, cheerios and broccoli. We leave Osteo-Form for adults and Vionate
for juveniles in the fed bowls at all times. We dust our crickets one to two times a week with Osteo-Form.
With proper husbandry you can expect your leopard gecko to live at least 10 to 20 years of age. We clean our
cages daily to prevent disease and to improve overall wellness of our leopard geckos. For more information
you can purchase books online and we highly recommend the book listed below.
Gary & Julia
( the kids )
Miranda, Alexander and Michael
We recommend “The Herpetoculture of Leopard Geckos (Twenty- seven Generations of Living Art).
|Leopard gecko Care Sheet